Mandarin, ginger, lavender, cistus, Akigalawood, coumarin
Fougère d’Argent is a bold reimagining of the classic fougère, a structure that traditionally revolves around lavender, oakmoss, and coumarin. With oakmoss no longer available, Tom Ford has re-worked the model in a provocative manner, substituting moss with Akigalawood, a Givaudan captive derived from patchouli that has a wonderfully spicy, woodsy bitterness. What emerges from Ford’s confident handling is a scent that smells truly masculine – earthy, herbaceous, and rich, with a radiantly spiced muskiness that billows around its wearer.
The aromatic topnotes of lavender, ginger, and citrus notes give off a formal Savile Row vibe, with the sort of soapy, minty freshness one expects to emanate from a gentleman wearing an impeccably-tailored suit. Akigalawood stands in most competently for the traditional oakmoss, its spicy, mossy sharpness softened by the buttery labdanum amber tucked away into a corner. What marks out this fougere as a particularly modern twist on an old format is its use of coumarin. Whereas in traditional fougeres, the coumarin adds a dry hay-like grassiness, here the coumarin is taken in a sultrier, more oriental direction, emphasizing the musky sweetness of the tonka bean from whence the coumarin was extracted.